Mushing Skills: How to Teach Your Dog “Gee” (Right) and “Haw” (Left)

Before you can teach your dog to turn right or left on a dime, you must first lay a solid groundwork. Attempting to teach directional commands without the proper prerequisites is like trying to build a house on an unstable foundation. Success depends on your dog’s prior training, your established relationship, and having the correct gear to ensure safety and comfort for both of you.

Prerequisite Skills

Your dog should have a firm grasp of several key concepts before you introduce ‘Gee’ and ‘Haw’. These skills ensure your dog is in a focused, ready-to-learn mindset.

• Forward Focus (‘Hike’ or ‘Let’s Go’): Your dog must understand a command to move forward and pull gently into the harness. Without this, you won’t have the momentum needed to execute a turn.
• A Solid ‘On By’ or ‘Leave It’: Your dog needs to be able to ignore distractions like squirrels, other dogs, or interesting smells when instructed. Intersections are full of tempting new scents and paths; your dog must prioritize your cue over their curiosity.
• Basic Leash Manners: While the goal is to work off-leash or at a distance, the initial training relies on a slack leash. A dog that constantly pulls erratically will make it difficult to guide them gently through turns.

Essential Equipment

Using the right equipment is not just about professionalism; it’s about your dog’s safety and your effectiveness as a trainer.

Expert Tip: Before your first training session, let your dog wear the new harness around the house and on regular walks. This helps them associate the gear with positive experiences, rather than just intense training, preventing them from becoming ‘harness shy’.

With your foundation in place, you can now begin the process of teaching the commands. This method is built on the principles of positive reinforcement and shaping behavior incrementally. Remember to keep sessions short (5-10 minutes) and always end on a positive note to keep your dog engaged and eager for the next lesson.

Step 1: Charging the Words

The first step is to give the words ‘Gee’ and ‘Haw’ meaning. You want your dog to have a positive emotional response to the sound before it’s ever connected to an action. This is a simple but critical phase.

1. Find a quiet space with no distractions.
2. Say the word “Gee!” in a clear, upbeat tone.
3. Immediately give your dog a high-value treat.
4. Pause for a few seconds.
5. Repeat the process. Do this 5-10 times.
6. Take a break, then repeat the entire exercise with the word “Haw!”.

Do this for a few short sessions over a day or two. The goal is simple classical conditioning: Dog hears ‘Gee’, dog gets a treat. Dog hears ‘Haw’, dog gets a treat.

Step 2: Introducing the Turn with Luring

Now, you’ll connect the charged word to the physical action of turning. Your chosen training location with clear intersections is key here.

1. Harness your dog and approach a T-intersection. Decide which way you will turn beforehand (e.g., right).
2. A few feet before the intersection, give your ‘Hike’ or ‘Let’s Go’ command to ensure you have forward momentum.
3. Just as you reach the point of decision, say “Gee!” in your clear, upbeat voice.
4. Simultaneously, use your body language and gentle leash pressure to guide the dog to the right. You can take an exaggerated step in that direction or point clearly. You are not pulling the dog, but rather guiding them.
5. The moment your dog commits to the right turn, praise them enthusiastically (“Yes! Good Gee!”) and give them a jackpot of treats.
6. Continue down the path and repeat at the next appropriate intersection, practicing both ‘Gee’ and ‘Haw’ turns.

Important: In this phase, your physical cues (leash, body) are doing most of the work. The verbal command is being layered on top of the action. Do not expect your dog to respond to the word alone yet.

Step 3: Fading the Lure and Physical Cues

Once your dog is confidently turning with your physical guidance (after several successful sessions), it’s time to make your cues more subtle. The objective is for the dog to rely more on the verbal command and less on your physical direction.

• Reduce Leash Guidance: Keep the leash slack as you approach the turn. Give the verbal command and wait a split second to see if the dog initiates the turn on their own before you apply any leash pressure. Reward any independent effort heavily.
• Minimize Body Language: Instead of taking a large step in the desired direction, simply shift your weight or use a smaller hand gesture. Gradually make your physical signals less and less obvious.
• Increase Distance: If you are bikejoring or using a scooter, allow the line to extend further so the dog has to make the choice more independently.

This is the most challenging phase. If your dog fails, simply go back a step to a more obvious cue for the next repetition. Your dog is not being stubborn; they are learning a complex cognitive task.

A dog that can perform ‘Gee’ and ‘Haw’ in a quiet park is one thing; a dog that can reliably follow these commands at speed, past distractions, and on unfamiliar trails is another. This stage, known as ‘proofing’, is about generalizing the skill to ensure it’s dependable in any situation.

Increasing Complexity and Speed

Gradually move beyond simple 90-degree turns. Start asking for more challenging maneuvers.

• Subtle Turns: Practice on trails that have gentle curves or slight forks rather than hard T-junctions. This requires the dog to pay closer attention.
• Adding Speed: Once the dog is confident at a walking or trotting pace, begin practicing while jogging, running, or cycling. The increased speed makes the decision-making process more difficult, so you may need to briefly re-introduce more obvious cues.
• Chaining Commands: Start linking commands together. For instance, as you come out of a right turn, immediately give your ‘Hike!’ command to encourage a burst of forward speed. This teaches the dog to stay focused and listen for the next instruction.

Introducing and Managing Distractions

Real-world environments are filled with distractions. You must systematically teach your dog to prioritize your command over everything else.

1. Low-Level Distractions: Start by practicing in an area with distant, low-level distractions, such as people walking far away or a calm dog on the other side of a field.
2. Controlled Scenarios: Ask a friend with a calm dog to stand stationary far off the trail. Practice directing your dog past this distraction using your ‘On By’ command in conjunction with your directional cues.
3. Varying Locations: Don’t just stick to your three favorite trails. Actively seek out new locations to practice. This prevents the dog from simply memorizing the routes and forces them to listen to your commands to navigate.

Expert Takeaway: Proofing is an ongoing process, not a final step. Every outing is an opportunity to reinforce good behavior. If your dog makes a mistake in a new or distracting environment, view it as a training opportunity, not a failure. Lower the criteria for success and reward the effort.

Even with the best training plan, you will likely encounter challenges. Understanding how to address these common issues is key to preventing frustration for both you and your dog. Furthermore, like any skill, directional commands require maintenance to stay sharp.

Common Training Problems and Solutions

Maintaining the Skills for Life

Once your dog is proficient, don’t stop training. These are perishable skills.

• Incorporate Commands into Daily Walks: You don’t need to be in a harness to practice. On a regular walk, use ‘Gee’ and ‘Haw’ to tell your dog which way you’re turning at the next sidewalk.
• Make it a Game: Turn your training into a fun ‘find it’ game. At an intersection, say ‘Gee’, and once the dog turns right, toss a treat ahead for them to find.
• Consistent Reinforcement: Never take a correct response for granted. Even a well-trained dog appreciates a ‘Good dog!’ for a job well done. Continue to use intermittent food rewards to keep the motivation high.