The Importance of Dog Training for a Happy, Balanced Pet-owner Relationship

First Principles

Teach respect, a dog has to be taught to respect its owner. You have to be his leader and not let him be yours. As you communicate with your dog he learns to understand you, he will forever be willing to please. Once the dog knows you are his leader, he will be a happy follower by teaching your dog the basic training commands and discipline.

It is next to impossible to have a normal, well-behaved, even-tempered dog without discipline and some training. Once a dog is trained he is a better pet and greater companion, and he himself will be happier for knowing that his owner is pleased with him. There are many books devoted to discipline and training and free online resources for dog training than ever imaginable! There are also many great obedience-training classes for low cost to no cost, one for example is PetSmart and I highly recommend this form of training, it helps your dog or puppy learn to socialize as well as get his basic obedience training from a professional source, helping you and your dog learn together. You must be willing to accept the fact that if your dog fails the course and becomes a dropout, it is entirely your fault not the dogs. He is a willing subject, it is your complete responsibility to ensure you and he complete all training classes and continue to adhere to the lessons learned.

Any sincerely interested dog owner can train their dog, and it can be a most rewarding educational experience for both. Patience and consistency is the key to successful training, at times you will have to be firm, but gentle and always, always give praise for each and every one of his positive efforts.Basically dog training is built on reward, repetition, reprimand and again praise. Although it can be too early to begin training, it is never too late. Most puppies form a strong attachment to an individual which may persist or wane, and there is often a phase of disobedience and defiance. Discipline is needed during this crucial period, but it must be with patience and never overbearing or intimidating. Don’t listen to the old cliché “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks”. There is nothing further from the truth, I don’t for one moment believe that you can’t teach an old dog new tricks, he can be taught new tricks and all the basic commands whatever his age.

 

It is bound to be a more difficult to break old habits like barking, chasing cars, sleeping on furniture etc., and can be resolved with proper training aids, such as no-bark collars, sonic bark control devices, citronella spray collars, indoor radio fences, and scat mats, if all other resources have been exhausted to resolve these and various other undesirable habits develop or exist. You and your dog must be relaxed before you begin any training session. He can and will know when you are tense or uncomfortable, he can’t learn while he is tense or timid and if your dog or puppy is showing signs of stubbornness or defiance they may be more resistant to teaching, but don’t give in, stay firm, consistent and have a routine, all animals are creatures of habit, so stay with the training. In essence complete relaxation is essential for both dog and trainer, also, make lessons fun for both you and your dog. He will learn much faster, and give you a greater reward for your training efforts, vise-versa.

 

Getting To Know Your Dog or Puppy

 

To train your dog or pup to the best advantage for both, you must get to know their personality, for example there are sensitive or shy dogs who squeal at the slightest noise with disciplinary action and the merest jerk of a training lead, grooming comb or word of discipline, causing you to hurt his feelings and mistrust. Take caution and try to understand this dog or puppy’s personality, this is vital to their mental health and needs to be taken in a very slow, easy manner. If a stronger, more aggressive training method is used with this type of personality it cannot be reversed, and will ultimately result in a very scared, confused pet. Then there is the more assertive type dogs, they may need a stronger form of training and attention spans may need to be focused on, “Fearless” Fun loving, and go for it types of dogs always pushing himself at you for your attention, he jumps on your guests, slobbers on them, forces his “Here I am” on you, your guests, children or the elderly. This personality may or may not need a more aggressive training method, depending on the breed and the owner’s training abilities.

Make the Lessons Fun

Dogs get bored with long training sessions. If you work them for over 20 minutes at a time, they will lose interest and stop listening to you. For a younger dog or puppy, 5 to 10 minutes is long enough for one training session. But do it frequently, and again with, praise or training reward treats.

Basic Dog Training Commands

(1) Leash Training: This is the first and foremost of all dog and puppy training. Say you need to take your pet to the Veterinarian for a check up…this cannot be done without a well leash trained dog or puppy. Work with your dog or puppy daily  DO NOT: pull, drag or force your dog to follow the leash, take it easy…..let them walk to you, stop…say “Good Dog” Reward them with a treat, and let them sit, then, pet, praise them. Give them time, always be patient, they will respond soon to your leash training, it is so very important not to scare them while leash training!!!! They will never feel safe with you!!

 

(2) Heel: You teach your dog to walk on you left side without pulling in front of you; he always walks beside you, comfortably, easily and will never pull at the leash. When he tries to walk in front of you, you jerk back on the lead and say the word “Heel”. Use this command with easy, gentle commands, do not “Yank” on the lead, be very, very gentle or this will cause your dog to become scared and try to bolt and make the “Heel” command frighten your dog, therefore, reversing your training and all trust established with your dog or puppy. Please always use good sense and respond to your dogs action or “Reaction” to “Leash and Heel” Training.

(3) Sit: Pull the leash straight up and while pushing down on his hindquarters, saying the word “Sit”. Most dogs learn this very quickly.

(4) Down: You don’t want your dog or puppy to jump on people, especially, elderly guests, children or anyone else that is coming to visit your home. Your dog needs to learn this after he is confident with his leash training. Grasp the leash or collar just under the dog’s neck and while gently pulling in the downward motion as you say, “Down”

(5) Stay: This is a very important command, as it can save your dog from a situation were harm or injury may occur, and this can be beneficial to the both of you. This command can save you or your dog from being hit by cars, or any other dangerous situation, this can your dogs life. To teach the “Stay” command put your dog in a sitting position and talk a few steps away, and if he attempts to come to you, firmly say “Stay” and stop walking, ask your dog to sit, and start again, keep repeating this procedure until he stays, this may take some time, remember keep the lessons short, and be consistent.

(6) Come: Be sure to do this with a leash or long lead. First put him on the “Stay” command, use the word “Come” and give the leash a light tug toward you, when he responds a comes to you give him praise and or a reward treat and repeat this lesson until your dog is responsive to the command, then you can remove the leash or lead and repeat the lesson. This is one of the easiest lessons dogs learn very quickly.  With all said and these simple, easy to follow training guidelines, you should have a long and happy relationship with your dog or puppy. Note: Never give up, be patient, consistent and always praise!!!! Love your dog like he loves you.

YOUR DOG

“He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog…..You are his life, his love, and his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy ofsuch devotion. “

Author unknown:

 

 

 

 


WoodCreek Pet Products

http://www.woodcreekmall.com/TrainingAids.html

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Emergency Dog Health Care : How To Treat Dog Stomach Problems

Learn how to treat your dog's upset stomach and intestinal problems in this free pet health care video, with tips from a veterinarian.Expert: Dr Adrienne Mulligan Bio: Dr. Adrienne Mulligan graduated from veterinary school at North Carolina State University in 1993, and now owns the Camp Verde Veterinary Clinic in Camp Verde, Arizona. Filmmaker: Chuck Tyler

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Dog Training – Help! My Dog Won’t Fetch

Dog Training Video – Easy trick to teach any dog how to play fetch (and actually drop the ball at your feet). Don't forget to rate this video, leave comments and subscribe to my channel. You can also get my FREE ebook "101 Ways To Improve Your Dog's Behavior" at: www.amazingdogtrainingman.com

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Dog Health Treatment & Advice : How to Treat Dog Conjunctivitis

To treat dog conjunctivitis, see a veterinarian who can determine the cause before prescribing an eye ointment, eye drops or an antihistamine, depending on the situation and animal. Care for conjunctivitis in a dog withhealth information from a veterinarian in this free video on pet care. Expert: Dr. Aimee Beger Bio: Dr. Aimee Beger works for mcclintock Animal Care Center in Tempe, Ariz. Filmmaker: Ryan Quinn

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Secrets to Great Dog Health Care: External Parasites and Their Treatments

WHAT IS A PARASITE?

External parasites are pretty common among dogs. A parasite is an organism that lives off the resources your dog has to offer: namely, fresh blood (which most parasites drink) and a warm place to stay (in and on the skin and fur).

What are the common parasites that might affect my dog?

There are a wide range of:

- Fleas
– Ticks
– Mites
– Lice

All of these parasites cause adverse reactions in your dog: typically, itching and inflamed skin, a dull coat, and bald spots. In advanced cases, your dog may develop anemia (blood loss) and become generally debilitated (particularly if he or she is very young, very old, or suffering from another condition).

In addition to this, many parasites convey secondary and internal parasites to your dog – for example, fleas usually carry the common tapeworm (which causes constipation and flatulence), and ticks can cause a variety of much more serious problems like Lyme’s disease and paralysis.

I’m going to be looking at fleas: what they are, how to tell if your dog’s affected, and how to get rid of them.

A CLOSER LOOK AT FLEAS

Fleas are without question the number-one most common external parasite affecting dogs. They’re small, jumping insects that are light brown in color, although humans generally can’t see them – they move much too quickly for that!

Fleas live off your dog’s blood. The life cycle of a flea moves very rapidly from stage one (egg) to stage four (adult flea), which means they’re capable of multiplying with staggering rapidity.

An adult flea lays hundreds of eggs per day. Each egg will then become an adult flea, which lay hundreds more eggs of its own. One flea becomes a major problem very quickly!

HOW TO TELL IF YOUR DOG HAS FLEAS

The symptoms of a flea infestation are unmistakable.

A dog with a flea infestation will scratch almost constantly, often at areas that fleas seem to favor: the ears, the base of the tail, the belly, and the stifle (the webbing of soft skin between the thigh and the abdomen).

It’s actually the saliva of the flea that causes the irritation, not the bite itself, and some dogs have a genuine allergy to this saliva (as opposed to a standard irritation). Dogs with allergies suffer much more significant negative reactions to a flea infestation, and usually develop “hot spots”.

These hot spots are areas of sore, inflamed, flaking, bleeding, and infected skin, caused by the flea saliva and your dog’s own reaction to it. Bald patches will sometimes develop too, from repeated scratching and ongoing inflammation.

If you think your dog has fleas, you can confirm your suspicions by taking a closer look at his skin: you probably won’t be able to see the fleas themselves, but you should be able to see what looks like ground pepper (a thin sprinkling of fine black grains) on his skin. This is flea dirt (poop).

If you groom him with a flea comb (which is like a fine-tooth comb), try wiping it on a paper towel: if red blotches show up on the towel, you know that your dog has fleas (on a white background like a paper towel, flea poop shows up red: since fleas subsist on blood, their poop is colored accordingly).

TREATMENT FOR FLEAS

Because fleas only spend a small amount of time actually on your dog, and the rest of their time leaping through your house laying eggs and feeding on human blood, it’s not enough to just treat the dog: you also have to target his bedding, the entire house, all human bedding, and the yard (yes, fleas lay eggs all through the yard, too. Even if it’s cold outside, you’re not necessarily off the hook: cold weather doesn’t kill flea eggs, it just puts them into a state of hibernation. The eggs will hatch as soon as it gets warm enough outside.)

You’ll need a broad-spectrum treatment which kills not only the adult fleas (which are the ones that bite), but also any developing fleas, and the eggs.

PREVENTION IS THE BEST (AND THE EASIEST!)

Prevention is definitely the best cure – you should keep your dog’s flea treatments up to date with the use of a calendar, and use a treatment that’s prescribed by the vet. Off-the-shelf treatments aren’t recommended, since different dogs require different strengths depending on their size, age, and activity levels. A particular benefit of prescribed flea treatment is that most are also designed to prevent other parasites (like mites, ticks, and heartworm) from affecting your dog.

FOR AN EXISTING INFESTATION

If your dog already has fleas, you have two options:

1. You can ‘bomb’ the house and yard with a flea-pesticide. These come as foggers (which coat each room, and the yard, in a fine mist of pesticide) and sprays (which are applied manually to each surface throughout the house and yard), and although they’re very effective in killing fleas and eggs, there’s one major drawback: they’re highly toxic to humans, dogs, and the environment. Depending on your priorities, this is probably the quickest solution to a flea problem (and will effectively wipe out the eggs, too) but if you have anyone in the house with allergies or a health condition – including pets! – you might want to think again.

2. A more health-friendly alternative is to target the dog with a topical anti-flea solution prescribed by the vet (like Advantage or Revolution), and to rigorously clean the house on a regular basis until the flea problem has gone. This means vacuuming each room thoroughly each day – put a flea collar in with the vacuum bag to kill any fleas that get sucked up – and wash all human and dog bedding in hot water as often as you can (once every day or every two days is recommended). You’ll be able to tell when the problem’s gone because your dog won’t be scratching, and his coat will be clear of flea dirt when you inspect it.

WHAT NOT TO DO ABOUT FLEAS

– Don’t use multiple products on your dog – it’ll make him sick, since you’ll be overloading his system with toxins.
- Don’t
forget to treat all the animals in the house at the same time: cat and dog fleas are interchangeable, and if one animal has fleas, they all will have them, even if some are not displaying the symptoms.
- Flea collars are no longer recommended as a safe option for flea prevention, since the collars are highly toxic – vets have realized that placing a toxic material directly against your pet’s skin for long periods of time

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